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Sooner or later it was bound to occur to a major food writer that there was a need for a comprehensive history of dining out in America, and we can be glad that someone as articulate as the food and travel correspondent for Esquire was the one so inspired. The author of a number of books on food and drink, Mariani has written an immensely interesting, illustrated survey of restaurants from colonial times to the present time, when fast-food eateries have catapulted the industry to the rank of third largest in the country.
Hotels and Restaurants
Sooner or later it was bound to occur to a major food writer that there was a need for a comprehensive history of dining out in America, and we can be glad that someone as articulate as the food and travel correspondent for Esquire was the one so inspired. The author of a number of books on food and drink, Mariani has written an immensely interesting, illustrated survey of restaurants from colonial times to the present time, when fast-food eateries have catapulted the industry to the rank of third largest in the country.
As Mariani tells us, "From the beginning there was always a gimmick. Whether it was the novelty of serving a hot lunch in the middle of the day, as John and Peter Delmonico did in New York back in 1827, or the idea of delivering a Domino's pizza to one's door in less than 30 minutes, the story of America's restaurants and eateries begins with a snap of the fingers."
It will probably come as a surprise to no one in the field to learn that the high mortality rate among new restaurants was a given even for the first eating houses, "which went in and out of business at an amazing rate of failure." The food was mediocre at best. Enormous numbers of people were served at a pace that would have been more appropriate in a barnyard.
There were exceptions, of course, such as Fraunces Tavern, which is still in existence. The restaurant where Gen. George Washington bade fare-well to his troops in 1783 offered off-premises catering and had seating for 70. The food included fried oyster, lobster and "beef alamonde." But for the most part the experience of public dining was not for the faint of heart. Mariani quotes a woman's 1704 account of a meal served at a Rhode Island coach stop:
"Here, having called for something to eat, the woman bro't in a twisted thing like a cable, but something whiter; and laying it on the bord, tugg'ed for life to bring it into a capacity to spread; which having with great pains accomplished, shee serv'd in a dish of pork and cabbage, I suppose the remains of dinner. The sauce was of a deep purple, which I tho't was boil'd in her dye kettle; the bread was Indian, and every thing on the table service agreeable to these."
The theme of gluttony, the author tells us, reached its apex in the so-called Gilded Age, following the Civil War, and "the restaurants of the Gilded Age, rococo palaces that catered to this new leisure class in extravagant dining rooms where conspicuous consumption was not only accepted but encouraged and marveled at."
Mariani is a chronicler of the first rank, and his history of restaurants is in no way a dry account of events and dates. On the contrary, it is a rich narrative, vibrant and dramatic, embellished with little details that only the most painstaking research could have uncovered.
Thus, in his chapter "Stretching the Sauce," Mariani explains that the Southern Italian immigrants brought a heritage of food with them to the New World; they gave American English new words, not the least colorful of which derived from the Neapolitan working-class dialect, which omitted the final vowel of words, sometimes transposing it to the first syllable, as in "ahpeetz" for "pizza."
Especially noteworthy are portraits of the times and the people who dreamed big dreams about building restaurant chains and, in some cases, even of setting standards that would influence public tates.
Indeed, this book itself is a pacesetter. The only problem. you'll find here is that you won't want to put it aside until you've finished reading it.
COPYRIGHT 1991 Reproduced with
permission of the copyright holder. Further reproduction or distribution
is prohibited without permission.
COPYRIGHT 2008 Gale, Cengage Learning
This is obviously not a comprehensive survey of old places in Phoenix (and Tempe and Scottsdale). This is what I could find during a mere weekend stay. Like all pages on this site, hopefully it will grow. Phoenix, Tempe & Scottsdale - nice cities! Sure is easy to get around (beats the heck out of Eastern Cities!). While the pickin's are a bit slim for true "Time Machines" by my definition, I did find a few gems (including what may be the best time machine I've found so far!). Feel free to send me suggestions for my next visit (hopefully not like my last nine year hiatus).
DURANT'S Restaurant, 2611 N Central Ave., Phoenix( since 1950 )
El Chorro Lodge, 5550
E Lincoln Dr
Paradise Valley
Grady Gammage Memorial Auditorium, Arizona State University Tempe Campus, 1200 S Forest Ave.
Mac Alpines Soda Fountain,
2303 N 7th St, Phoenix, Arizona 602 262-5545 (since 1928)
Monti's La Casa Vieja, 100 S Mill Ave. Tempe(since 1954)
The Stockyards Restaurant & 1889 Saloon, 5009 E Washington, Phoenix (since 1954)
Trader Vic's, 6850 E Main St. Scottsdale
Hotel Valley Ho, 6902
E 1st St # 200, Scottsdale
Well as I said, the pickin's are slim on time machines in Phoenix but this place may be the most perfect time machine of them all (in my limited travels at least). This is exactly how I would imagine someone would have been treated at a upscale Hollywood restaurant in the 50's. Not only is the ambiance and interior design perfect, but the food is wonderful and above all the true art of service is practiced here. While Musso and Frank's may have an edge on history, this place is the whole package. Not inexpensive, but fine dining never is and careful ordering won't break the bank. Wonderful fresh bread served with an addictive topping. This is an absolute "must see" in Phoenix. Central Avenue is currently completely chopped up with construction, so avoid as much of it as possible. Another great quirk of this place is that you enter in the back through a very busy kitchen with all the staff greeting you in any event. If you're on a budget, at least stop in for a drink. It would be insane for Phoenix to ever let this place go and since the place was packed when I went, there seems no danger of this happening!
I had breakfast here. Not inexpensive but good for a splurge. This is the kind of old fashion place that locals go to for generations for nostalgia reasons. In a very beautiful area sandwiched between two mountains. Lot's of Western history here, the place started out as a girl's school in 1934. The stars here during breakfast are their fresh baked sort of unraveled cinnamon rolls and other pastries that come with the meal. Fairly remodeled but still with an old feel, especially the bar area. Very good service. I won't get into why "El Chorro" has a rather ironic connotation in Mexican slang. One of Frank Lloyd Wright's last designs. Built in 1964. I guess I'll pretend that I know something about architecture and be judgmental here. If Wright's Taliesin West is the equivalent in creativity to Paul McCartney's "Eleanor Rigby", then this building parallel's "Live and Let Die" (a nice song) - at least the exterior. Few geniuses retain the same level of creativity to the end. Just compare Akira Kurosawa's "Dersu Uzala" and his film "Dreams", Albert Einstein's "Theory of Relativity" and his "Cosmological Constant", Jerry Springer on his original show and on "America's Got Talent".
This is another standout in the time machine field in Phoenix. Pure nostalgia. Similar to the St. Francis Fountain & Candy Store in San Francisco (although the St. Francis is in a little more original condition). Every kind of soda fountain drink you can imagine, Egg Creams, Phosphates. Even the Coca Cola here somehow tastes better. Milkshakes made the only true way there is. Thank heavens this place has survived. A great place to take kids to teach them about the "good old days". A very dedicated and friendly staff. Highly recommended.
Incredibly historic restaurant in Tempe which apparently may be endangered by development. Hard to believe the city would consider changing this place in any way even for a minute. Very old, classic Western feel. Good food. Tempe's always a fun place to visit, although the city did not seem as clean as I remembered it years ago. The restaurant is housed in an 1871 adobe hacienda. Long term Congressman Carl Hayden was born in this adobe.
Very nice bar with an old Western saloon back bar similar to the one's in Virginia City. If I understood the bartender correctly I believe he said the back bar was hand carved on site when the place was opened rather than being an antique one brought in from elsewhere. Could have fooled me. The original restaurant the bar was attached to burnt down and was rebuilt, but apparently the bar survived. Lot's of great old murals that have only been slightly touched up in a recent remodel. Very friendly bartender who was rightly proud of his place. I didn't get to eat in the restaurant, but the reconstructed one still has a nice old feel.
Trader Vic's has returned to Scottsdale, and this one is very nice! Unlike the new Trader Vic's in Las Vegas, this one is closer to the Tiki origins of the company. Very hip, very mid-century modern just like its Valley Ho Hotel location. Still has the classic Trader Vic's libations. I'm not sure what the official label is for the style of music they play in the background is (sort of a cross between new age and classic lounge - I tend to call it Buddha bar music since that's the first place I've heard this style). While I would prefer old school lounge, this music is also very relaxing. I think they have once again struck a nice compromise between old school tiki and modern hip. Incidentally, you'll see I always include Tiki places on the site even if they are not old. I made the rules, so I can break them! This place alone merits a trip out to Scottsdale. Get directions before coming. It's a little hard to find just by looking for the address.
This historic hotel has been
wonderfully remodeled in an ultra hip mid-century modern style, much
like the wonderful style of Shawn Hausman's Standard Hotels in Los Angeles.
Having Trader Vic's on the premises (along with a very attractive hotel
restaurant and lounge of their own) makes this a Modernism mecca and
of course a must see (and stay!). The hotel was first built in 1956,
and has a Frank Lloyd Wright influence since it was originally designed
by his student Edward L. Varnay. I was totally in awe of the whole place.
What a great idea. I couldn't afford staying here this visit but if
the place ever shows up on Priceline.com ...I'm there!
50
One of the rare, privately owned hotels, privately owned hotels in London, Durrants has a particularly cosy bar with an original coal fire. Unless stated otherwise, prices are for a double room, including breakfast, in low season (some hotels stipulate two nights or half board at weekends). Note that some hotels close for a week or two in January or February.
SCOTLAND
THE NORTH
CENTRAL